Spanish Memories - #11, 12, and 13

Major food theme on the countdown today...

#13 - MariscCo

Barcelona prides itself on serving extremely fresh seafood, and my #13 memory celebrates this fact.  At MariscCo (which I found searching through restaurant reviews online), you choose your meal from various fish and shellfish presented "market style" (shown above) at the front of the restaurant, and then wait as everything is cooked in their open kitchen.  At the counter, you select from a variety of shrimp, lobster (which is still alive), crab, monkfish, oysters, mussels, tuna, and other fishes.  I've never encountered such a place in America, but it is a great way to pick what looks good and then have it prepared any way that you'd like (although they have recommendations which I've always found to be great).

The two staples which I've ordered on all my visits are the king prawns and octopus.  The shrimp is served head-on in a delicious garlic olive oil, while the octopus is served in the typical fashion with paprika.  Both dishes are incredibly tender and cooked just until the seafood is ready; too often shrimp and octopus are chewy but here the texture is indescribably good.  My last trip, I had their tuna which was also excellent... seared on a flat-top for a minute on each side and then served with a simple soy sauce.  The quality of the tuna, served rare, was extremely high and the flavor (the meaty fish coupled with the soy and the seared edges) was fantastic.

For me, MariscCo is a great celebration of the local seafood available in Barcelona.  The front display and the simple but delicious cooking methods highlight everything that is good about the cuisine here.  While American seafood restaurants mostly center their dishes around a particular item, MariscCo keeps with the "tapas" way by offering portions of any size (picked by the customer) so that a meal can be one main course, or a collection of several small samples!

#12 - Octopus with Paprika

One of the most common, and delicious, Spanish dishes is octopus served with paprika and potatoes.  Other than duck confit, it's probably the one meal I've tried more than any other here.  With few exceptions, the octopus is served cut into coin-shaped pieces and then coated with paprika and olive oil.  For whatever reason, I find that the flavor combination here is PERFECT; the tender octopus has a very mild flavor (barely tasting like seafood) with  a nice salty quality that magnifies the taste of the paprika.  It is critical that the octopus be prepared well, so that it is tender rather than gummy (I've had one case where it was somewhat gummy and dry, and while it was still okay, it wouldn't qualify for this list in that state), which provides the whole dish with a unique texture-and-flavor match that I've never found anywhere else. 

Sadly, I've only had this dish ONCE in America, and that was in a Spanish restaurant in Philadelphia.  It is one of the foods I'll definitely miss when I return back to Clayton... and one that isn't quite so simple to make at home!

#11 - Bocadillos

Spain's answer to an American sub is the bocadillo... typically some sort of pork "deli" meat (Spanish ham, sausages, salami, bacon, etc.) served on fresh baked bread with tomato rubbed in.  Bocadillos are commonly served for breakfast (between 9-10:30 AM here) and are so simple yet ridiculously good.  First, the tomato inclusion is incredible... it is sweet and makes everything taste so fresh (infinitely better than a tomato slice).  Next, the fresh baked bread makes a huge difference as it is crisp on the outside but airy inside.  And finally, the star of the sandwich is whatever meat you select... the ham, bacon, and fuet (a type of salami is probably the best explanation) versions are my favorites, and really you cannot go wrong.  When I return home, my first trip to the grocery store will be spent collecting ingredients to make bocadillos of my own, allowing me to savor the basic and delicious staple of the Spanish breakfast.

#14 - Bar Londen
#15 - Duck Confit is Everywhere
#16 - McDonalds
#17 - American Fox Television
#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley
#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub
#20 - Prices Include Tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #14

Wherever you live, it's important to find one or two places that you can rely on for good food, good drinks, and a nice atmosphere.  Fortunately for me, that place in Granollers was only a block from my hotel.

#14 - Bar Londen

When I first saw Bar Londen, I hoped it would be an English bar that for some reason chose to set up shop in Granollers.  This was not the case, but everything worked out anyway.  Bar Londen is typical of the Spanish bars in and around Barcelona; they serve tapas, sandwiches, and mostly beer (for liquor drinkers in Spain, be aware that they made the drinks probably 2-3 times as strong as in America and in tall glass...  also no place has Crown Royal somehow).  There are seats inside and out on the sidewalk, and they have a very neighborhood-y loyal clientele.

After my first or second visit where the workers figured out I was American, I was greeted with short English sentences, which was a nice touch.  No matter how poorly I asked questions in Spanish (at first, I didn't even try but even today, it's not always pretty), they always helped and got me what I needed.  This welcoming atmosphere provided a good spot for me to come after work, or for a sandwich on the weekend, just to relax and for a few minutes not worry that I was in a different country across the ocean from the US.

My three favorite dishes here were chicken croquettes (basically chicken soup that has been "soaked" into flour and then deep-friend... delicious), patatas bravas (pictured above... fried cubed potatoes in a spicy mayo sauce), and their bacon sandwich (basically a bacon sub) with tomato rubbed on the bread (a classic in Catalan cuisine, and one of the best things that exists).  I never really strayed from these three dishes, and I was always happy with the results.  Sure, nothing was gourmet, but it was the closest equivalent to American bar food I could find and that's an important food group for me!

Spanish culture is much different than American when it comes to places like this... in America, few people  (if any) would go to their local bar just to sit outside for an hour, talk, and have a Coke.  Here, it's quite common.  As a result, the Spaniards see one another often and create their social circle by being out and about rather than isolated in their flats (another reason may be the limited living space I suppose).  Bar Londen is a great example of this, and one I wish existed more in the US; nothing fancy or expensive but a great place to relax, have a drink or snacks, and spend time with your friends.

#15 - Duck Confit is Everywhere
#16 - McDonalds
#17 - American Fox Television
#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley
#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub
#20 - Prices Include Tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #15

My time here in Spain, contrary to what the first few items on the countdown suggest, has been mostly filled with amazing experiences and great regional food.  And so onto my fifteenth memory...

#15 - Duck confit is EVERYWHERE!

Before arriving in Spain, I'd been fortunate enough to have duck confit maybe five or six times (including the best version I've ever had, even still, at Blue Ribbon Bakery in New York) in my life.  More common in America is the duck breast, although I'm not totally sure why since it seems to me that slow cooking a bone-in duck leg in its own fat would be far simpler than expertly grilling the breast to medium rare.  Anyway, the flavor of duck confit is so incredibly rich, flavorful, and unique that I order it EVERY time I see it on a menu.

That brings me to Spain... where it is ALWAYS on the menu!  Within my first two weeks here, I'd already had duck confit twice and started to realize that it was as common as a chicken breast would be in the States.  Except for neighborhood bars and tapas restaurants, I am not sure I've been somewhere where I couldn't order it.  Even in the grocery store, I was able to buy a frozen version that I then pan-heated into pure deliciousness (added bonus for the aroma in my room the rest of the night!).

Almost invariably, duck confit here (called confit de pato) is served with fruit in a sweet sauce, a classic and perfect pairing to contrast with the richness of the meat.  I would guess I've had it eight or nine times in Spain, and the only differentiating factor for me when comparing the various versions is how crispy the particular restaurant can get the skin (always the best part of duck).  The picture above, showing the leg served in a wonderful apricot sauce, probably was the winner in the past five months, but even the worst version was fantastic. 

For those of you who have never tried this wonderful dish, PLEASE take advantage when you see it on a menu in America.  Or just come to Spain and you'll always have a chance at your next meal...

#16 - McDonalds
#17 - American Fox Television
#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley
#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub
#20 - Prices Include Tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #16 & 17

Today's double entry comes from the "reminders of America" category.  As much as I have enjoyed experiencing Spain and everything it has to offer, sometimes it's nice to get a taste (both figuratively and literally) of home.

#17 - American Fox Television

Over my time here, I have made dramatic improvements in my use and understanding of the Spanish language.  Unfortunately, the "start" point of that curve was at "zero" level, so I am still getting familiar speaking and writing, without much ability to listen and understand.  This problem at work has been mitigated by everyone speaking English so well but at my hotel room, it's a little tougher as I have down time and like to enjoy television now and then. 

Fortunately for me, one of the three English channels is Fox (not the same as we have in America as it shows many various shows from ABC, NBC, and CBS also) and I'm treated to the Simpsons, Futurama, and the Family Guy each weekend.  While it sounds boring to spend my time in a foreign country watching something I could see at home, after five months of touring all around and through Barcelona, I sometimes need a break.  Realistically, I've probably seen more of these three shows here than I have in the past five years combined at home... and for that, I'm thankful!

PS - The Fox here also shows "Modern Family", "Grey's Anatomy", and "How I Met Your Mother" plus three shows I'd never heard of before... "Body of Proof" (which is great), "Law and Order: UK" (awful), and some show about a psychic paramedic which is decent.

#16 - McDonalds

No matter how great the food is here, and it is GREAT, every once in a while I crave some chicken nuggets and fries.  Thankfully, Spain can support this habit with a scattering of McDonalds.  Here are some of the best parts of the Spanish McDonalds:

- They have the same menu PLUS extra items including chicken wings (delicious) and ice cream cones with Kit Kats randomly in them.

- All of the food is cooked fresh, so it's always incredible.  I've only tried the nuggets and fries but they are consistently as good as any I get in the States.

- The interior decor of the two restaurants I've tried is beyond modern, and colorful also.

- Value Meals are called "McMeals".

So there are numbers 17 and 16, keeping me in touch with my "American heritage" while living abroad.  To find more details for numbers 20-18 below, check my main site.

#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley

#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub

#20 - Prices include tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #18

I am continuing with my countdown of the 20 memorable things for me in Spain during my assignment.  You can link through the main page if you want to read about numbers 19 and 20, but next up is...

#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley

After spending my first two weeks here in Spain basically sitting in my hotel room (my bum ankle did not help things but I wasn't exactly turning down opportunities left and right either), I was invited to go bowling with some friends from work on the third Saturday.  At the time, I wasn't quite sure what to expect as I'd noticed many differences between the Spanish and American cultures already, but it was my first activity out so I jumped at the chance.

Two seconds after entering the bowling complex, I felt at home, and this small sense of comfort probably helped me for the balance of the time here!  Had I been dropped into an alley in Clayton, NC or Pittsburgh, PA, or really anywhere in the United States, I'm not sure I would have seen any differences from what I saw here.  The typical shoe counter greeted us as we walked in, and in the distance I saw a bar as well as a ticket counter for the countless arcade games being played by young kids all around.  The bowling lanes themselves were, to my amateur eye, the same length and width that I was used to, and the ball weights were even listed in pounds (which caused confusion in my boss the day before, as he claimed the balls weighed 10-15 kilograms, which would be over 20 pounds!). 

My bowling effort was poor, which I blamed on my ankle although that was of minimal consequence.  But the most important discovery came in between the first and second game.  On my way to the restroom, I saw my favorite bar game of all time... Pop-a-Shot basketball!  Best of all, everything was in English and it had a running high score, giving me a target to beat.  Because we were bowling with eight or so people, I had PLENTY of time to get to work on the scoring record.

After one warm up game, I got into my groove and began storming towards the high score (which was somewhere in the low 300s when I started I think).  After my third or fourth game, I had reached the high score but knew I could do even better.  At just this time, a small group of kids who had been playing started to gather around (at a safe distance) to see the American at work.  I am proud to say that, in front of a small crowd of maybe 5 kids, I put up an unfathomable 351 (shown above, and I eased up at the end) that left the group in awe!

For me, the experiences of bowling and playing arcade basketball ball showed me that I had a few "connections" to American living here if I needed them.  Surprisingly, I haven't been back and I suppose that speaks mostly to how I've been able to connect with "Spanish living" relatively well.  Still though, I probably should make one more visit just to check and see if I still have the machine record...

19. Scobie's Irish Pub

20. Prices include tax in Spain

Top 20 Spanish Memories

As my time here in Spain winds down (three weeks and counting), I wanted to capture some of the specific memories that I'll keep when I return to North Carolina.  What will follow in the next few weeks is a list of the "Top 20" things from my time in Spain.  Of course, I already realized I missed one major thing (the Rancid concert which I detailed here) that should be Top 10 or Top 5, so there are probably gaps and activities out of order, but I suppose it's better than nothing.  Some items are places Jessica and I traveled or ate, others are Barcelona tourist sights, and a few are silly conveniences or quirks of Spain that I enjoyed or that made my time here a bit easier.  Anyway, I hope this list can provide a good look into what it's like living in Spain for five months as an American.

Today starts with a two-for-one... enjoy!

#20 - Prices in Spain INCLUDE tax!

Even I realize how inane this first item sounds (and I don't want people to mistake that this trait is inherently better than the Olympic Port or something else that didn't make the list), but it was a little feature of Spain that I truly enjoyed.  Too often in America, I want to buy something that costs $5 but then it ends up being $5.35 or whatever the sales tax is in a particular state on a particular day and I'm annoyed with change in my pocket the rest of the day.  Here in Spain... NO PROBLEM!  If something costs 2 euros, it costs 2 euros and you don't need extra change to cover the "hidden" fee. 

For some reason, this always makes my bill at a restaurant seem a little cheaper.  I build in a tax and tip percentage in my mind (shockingly near 30% in the US) that basically doesn't exist here, and that is a WONDERFUL feeling... even if I am deceiving myself because the difference between the euro and the dollar basically cancels any benefit.  Still, this is a very satisfying method of displaying prices for an analytical, mathematical mind that appreciates taking a break every once in a while.  I implore the US to adopt this... stop fooling the consumer with prices and while you're at it, let's round gas prices up the $0.001 cent rather than having that silly small 9 at the end.

#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub

Every once in a while, it was nice to go somewhere that I knew had an English-speaking bartender and would be showing sports I was interested in.  For me, Scobie's filled this need perfectly.  Located a block away from Placa Cataluyna, Scobie's was owned and run by an Irish guy and had a bartender named Seamus who became a friend over the course of my visits; I even got the lowdown on how terrible it was for him to move from one apartment to another in the city.  The general friendliness here and the authentic Irish bar feel were both great.  Scobie's was one of the few places where I felt truly comfortable and more "at home", which made a big difference during some of the tougher stretches!

My best Scobie's memory came during the British Open, which is the one golf major timed well for living in Europe (rather than requiring me to stay up until 1 or 2 AM for the finish like the Masters or US Open).  I spent both Saturday and Sunday at Scobie's watching Adam Scott build up and then choke away his first major, all the while enjoying the witty Irish commentary of the bartenders and the company of fellow drinkers from the UK.  Throw in an excellent grilled ham and cheese sandwich (called a bikini in Spain for some reason) with crisp fries and I couldn't ask for much more.  Anyone who ventures to Barcelona from the States should pay Scobie's a visit; it won't disappoint.

Our Two Week Vacation

As most of you probably know, Jessica and I just shared a two week vacation exploring Barcelona and the surrounding areas.  Because of some passport issues, we weren't able to get to Paris or Rome but we still had the BEST time and saw so much more of Spain than we saw on our her first trip here!  It will be too difficult to capture everything that we did, so below I've just summarized a few of the activities that stand out (Jessica's blog will have others I'm sure, including her favorite fish pedicure!).  Additionally, throughout the two weeks we both posted many pictures and videos on Facebook and Instagram if you are interested.

Dining - As always, the food took center stage during our vacation.  I was able to try for the first time cod confit, roasted suckling pig, tuna and tomato tartare, and veal ribs (all of which were incredible really) as well as the typical Spanish foods that I've come to enjoy during my stay here.  One dining experience, though, was completely different than anything we have tried before, either here or in America...

Espai Sucre - Espai Sucre (http://www.espaisucre.com/) is a restaurant that specializes in desserts with a focus on molecular gastronomy and unique flavor combinations.  Instead of serving typical savory courses and then having a dessert menu, they actually offer full menus of desserts only (as well as two options where they create one or two savory courses integrated with the sweet).  For our meal, Jessica chose the five-course dessert option while I selected the six-course menu with two savory items (octopus in my second course, pork in my third).  To best understand the meal, I'd suggest you look at our pictures on Instagram, but for a quick summary:

- The dishes all looked and tasted incredible.  Each had unique flavor combinations (often times matching fresh herbs with fruit flavors as well as chocolates, coffees, and even tobacco) as well as varying textures, with foams, ices, jellies, creams, and even tapioca in my final course.  The colors were great too... bright yellows and light greens contrasted with reds and whites and dark chocolates.  Just viewing the plate was satisfying I thought!
- The pork dish I had, covered with a coffee streusel, was one of the five best flavors I've tried in my life.  It was a high quality rib cut, but tasted more like a perfectly braised belly piece with a meatier consistency.  The coffee crunch was excellent as well, and I've never had a better reduced pork sauce than this one.
- Even with the complex courses, sometimes pairing five and six flavors, I found (with one exception) that each ingredient served a purpose and the best bites were ones with every component included.
- Service was incredible.  The restaurant only has six tables I think, and each course is explained perfectly by the two servers.  For us, the main waiter was great describing the wines as well, and generally led us through the meal.  Rarely do I feel that service adds or takes away much from my experience, but here it was integral to our enjoyment!

Parc Guell - On Jessica's first visit, we missed this Barcelona spot so it was at the top of our list this time around.  The park is located in the northern part of the city, high on the hill sloping down towards the sea.  As a result, there are fantastic views of the entire urban landscape (in addition to the park itself, which features typical Gaudi architecture and many paths and greenery).  I enjoyed seeing the park and the views of Barcelona, but thought the whole thing was a bit too crowded and "touristy" for my taste.  It would be much better if the city was able to keep the random vendors outside of the park but it's highly unlikely I suppose.  Even still, if you are coming to the city and want to see all of the sights, this is a must visit place!

Wine Tours - We booked a wine tour for an area west of Barcelona, where we had the chance to visit three separate wineries.  The first (Jean Leon) was small but offered a great chance to see the whole process of making wine from start to finish, even allowing us the opportunity to try the ripe grapes!  Our second stop at Torres (which is the largest wine maker in the country) was more about the tasting, as we sampled three of their wines with a selection of cheeses.  I'd never done a true wine tasting and really enjoyed the combination of flavors as well as the information and "coaching" we were given to better understand the pairings.  The third stop (Freixenet) was where the Spanish version of champagne, called Cava, is made.  This tour was very interesting, as the cellars are 20 meters underground and we were able to tour through them with a guide describing the process as we went.  Overall, I enjoyed all three wineries for different reasons and found the tour to be interesting, fun, and delicious.  While seeing the sights IN Barcelona is probably best for travelers with limited time, this adventure was great and gives a nice overview of the various important Spanish wines.

Montserrat - The second day tour we booked was to Montserrat, a famous mountain outside of Barcelona that has great meaning to Catalan people.  The mountain is breathtaking, and the climb up to the "town" on a cog-wheel train is both amazing (with views) and terrifying (for those afraid of heights!).  Once at the top, we explored the small town to see the monks' residences and the square and basilica.  The whole place is unlike any place I've been... just a few building built into the side of a mountain with huge cliffs dropping to the ground below and high rocks above.  For most people in Barcelona, this is a must-see when you visit and for the views alone, I must agree (even if I was scared of the height and dropoffs the entire time, as Jessica can attest!).

Costa Brava - To get the true Spain-in-August experience, we booked two nights in the Costa Brava at Hotel Aigua Blava.  The Costa Brava is an area on the northeastern coast of Spain with jagged rocky shorelines and spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea.  Our hotel was located on a small bluff overlooking a bay filled with boats of all sizes... a perfect view to wake up to each morning.  We spent most of our time here relaxing by the pool (which also overlooked the bay) since the rest of our trip was more hectic, and we enjoyed every second of it.  It was great to sit by the pool reading with a Fanta or water or Coke Zero or beer and not have to worry about anything else... I think it's just what we both needed!  We didn't travel to any of the other beaches in the area (and there are MANY) which is what a lot of locals do, but I couldn't have asked for a better getaway for a few days.

Camp Nou - The final "major" activity for Jessica's visit was the Barca - Real Madrid match at the Camp Nou.  Neither of us had ever been to a futbol match before, and this was quite a way to break in as we saw one of the biggest rivalries in the world featuring the two best players as well as a host of other world-class talents.  The game was exciting... five goals were scored in the second half and Barcelona won by a score of 3-2.  We saw goals by Messi, Ronaldo, and Xavi among others, and even got into the Barca cheers by the end of the 90 minutes!  Because of the game time (10:30 PM to avoid the heat, which was still BRUTAL!), we booked a hotel near the stadium for the night, which ended up being fantastic.  It was the most modern, and nicest, Hilton I've ever stayed in, and we were given a room on the executive floor so we could enjoy the extra perks.  I cannot recommend this hotel enough for anyone traveling to the city; it is also located just a block from an upscale mall as well as a short subway ride to the center of the city.  The day and night spent at and near the hotel before the game, plus the game itself , made for a perfect ending to Jessica's visit!

I am 26 days away from returning home and cannot wait!  Jessica and I loved our time here together, but nothing can replace being home in Clayton (and with Berkley!).  Still, we experienced so much of Barcelona and the areas around it in her two visits, and I'm so thankful we had the opportunity for that.  Seeing a different country, and a different culture, adds so much to my understanding of the people as well as my appreciation of the life that I am fortunate enough to have.  While there is no place like home, there are also very few places as vibrant, enjoyable, and impressive as Barcelona.