Thursday, August 30, 2012

Top 20 Spanish Memories

As my time here in Spain winds down (three weeks and counting), I wanted to capture some of the specific memories that I'll keep when I return to North Carolina.  What will follow in the next few weeks is a list of the "Top 20" things from my time in Spain.  Of course, I already realized I missed one major thing (the Rancid concert which I detailed here) that should be Top 10 or Top 5, so there are probably gaps and activities out of order, but I suppose it's better than nothing.  Some items are places Jessica and I traveled or ate, others are Barcelona tourist sights, and a few are silly conveniences or quirks of Spain that I enjoyed or that made my time here a bit easier.  Anyway, I hope this list can provide a good look into what it's like living in Spain for five months as an American.

Today starts with a two-for-one... enjoy!

#20 - Prices in Spain INCLUDE tax!


Even I realize how inane this first item sounds (and I don't want people to mistake that this trait is inherently better than the Olympic Port or something else that didn't make the list), but it was a little feature of Spain that I truly enjoyed.  Too often in America, I want to buy something that costs $5 but then it ends up being $5.35 or whatever the sales tax is in a particular state on a particular day and I'm annoyed with change in my pocket the rest of the day.  Here in Spain... NO PROBLEM!  If something costs 2 euros, it costs 2 euros and you don't need extra change to cover the "hidden" fee. 

For some reason, this always makes my bill at a restaurant seem a little cheaper.  I build in a tax and tip percentage in my mind (shockingly near 30% in the US) that basically doesn't exist here, and that is a WONDERFUL feeling... even if I am deceiving myself because the difference between the euro and the dollar basically cancels any benefit.  Still, this is a very satisfying method of displaying prices for an analytical, mathematical mind that appreciates taking a break every once in a while.  I implore the US to adopt this... stop fooling the consumer with prices and while you're at it, let's round gas prices up the $0.001 cent rather than having that silly small 9 at the end.

#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub


Every once in a while, it was nice to go somewhere that I knew had an English-speaking bartender and would be showing sports I was interested in.  For me, Scobie's filled this need perfectly.  Located a block away from Placa Cataluyna, Scobie's was owned and run by an Irish guy and had a bartender named Seamus who became a friend over the course of my visits; I even got the lowdown on how terrible it was for him to move from one apartment to another in the city.  The general friendliness here and the authentic Irish bar feel were both great.  Scobie's was one of the few places where I felt truly comfortable and more "at home", which made a big difference during some of the tougher stretches!

My best Scobie's memory came during the British Open, which is the one golf major timed well for living in Europe (rather than requiring me to stay up until 1 or 2 AM for the finish like the Masters or US Open).  I spent both Saturday and Sunday at Scobie's watching Adam Scott build up and then choke away his first major, all the while enjoying the witty Irish commentary of the bartenders and the company of fellow drinkers from the UK.  Throw in an excellent grilled ham and cheese sandwich (called a bikini in Spain for some reason) with crisp fries and I couldn't ask for much more.  Anyone who ventures to Barcelona from the States should pay Scobie's a visit; it won't disappoint.

Saturday, August 25, 2012

Our Two Week Vacation


As most of you probably know, Jessica and I just shared a two week vacation exploring Barcelona and the surrounding areas.  Because of some passport issues, we weren't able to get to Paris or Rome but we still had the BEST time and saw so much more of Spain than we saw on our her first trip here!  It will be too difficult to capture everything that we did, so below I've just summarized a few of the activities that stand out (Jessica's blog will have others I'm sure, including her favorite fish pedicure!).  Additionally, throughout the two weeks we both posted many pictures and videos on Facebook and Instagram if you are interested.

Dining - As always, the food took center stage during our vacation.  I was able to try for the first time cod confit, roasted suckling pig, tuna and tomato tartare, and veal ribs (all of which were incredible really) as well as the typical Spanish foods that I've come to enjoy during my stay here.  One dining experience, though, was completely different than anything we have tried before, either here or in America...

Espai Sucre - Espai Sucre (http://www.espaisucre.com/) is a restaurant that specializes in desserts with a focus on molecular gastronomy and unique flavor combinations.  Instead of serving typical savory courses and then having a dessert menu, they actually offer full menus of desserts only (as well as two options where they create one or two savory courses integrated with the sweet).  For our meal, Jessica chose the five-course dessert option while I selected the six-course menu with two savory items (octopus in my second course, pork in my third).  To best understand the meal, I'd suggest you look at our pictures on Instagram, but for a quick summary:

- The dishes all looked and tasted incredible.  Each had unique flavor combinations (often times matching fresh herbs with fruit flavors as well as chocolates, coffees, and even tobacco) as well as varying textures, with foams, ices, jellies, creams, and even tapioca in my final course.  The colors were great too... bright yellows and light greens contrasted with reds and whites and dark chocolates.  Just viewing the plate was satisfying I thought!
- The pork dish I had, covered with a coffee streusel, was one of the five best flavors I've tried in my life.  It was a high quality rib cut, but tasted more like a perfectly braised belly piece with a meatier consistency.  The coffee crunch was excellent as well, and I've never had a better reduced pork sauce than this one.
- Even with the complex courses, sometimes pairing five and six flavors, I found (with one exception) that each ingredient served a purpose and the best bites were ones with every component included.
- Service was incredible.  The restaurant only has six tables I think, and each course is explained perfectly by the two servers.  For us, the main waiter was great describing the wines as well, and generally led us through the meal.  Rarely do I feel that service adds or takes away much from my experience, but here it was integral to our enjoyment!

Parc Guell - On Jessica's first visit, we missed this Barcelona spot so it was at the top of our list this time around.  The park is located in the northern part of the city, high on the hill sloping down towards the sea.  As a result, there are fantastic views of the entire urban landscape (in addition to the park itself, which features typical Gaudi architecture and many paths and greenery).  I enjoyed seeing the park and the views of Barcelona, but thought the whole thing was a bit too crowded and "touristy" for my taste.  It would be much better if the city was able to keep the random vendors outside of the park but it's highly unlikely I suppose.  Even still, if you are coming to the city and want to see all of the sights, this is a must visit place!

Wine Tours - We booked a wine tour for an area west of Barcelona, where we had the chance to visit three separate wineries.  The first (Jean Leon) was small but offered a great chance to see the whole process of making wine from start to finish, even allowing us the opportunity to try the ripe grapes!  Our second stop at Torres (which is the largest wine maker in the country) was more about the tasting, as we sampled three of their wines with a selection of cheeses.  I'd never done a true wine tasting and really enjoyed the combination of flavors as well as the information and "coaching" we were given to better understand the pairings.  The third stop (Freixenet) was where the Spanish version of champagne, called Cava, is made.  This tour was very interesting, as the cellars are 20 meters underground and we were able to tour through them with a guide describing the process as we went.  Overall, I enjoyed all three wineries for different reasons and found the tour to be interesting, fun, and delicious.  While seeing the sights IN Barcelona is probably best for travelers with limited time, this adventure was great and gives a nice overview of the various important Spanish wines.

Montserrat - The second day tour we booked was to Montserrat, a famous mountain outside of Barcelona that has great meaning to Catalan people.  The mountain is breathtaking, and the climb up to the "town" on a cog-wheel train is both amazing (with views) and terrifying (for those afraid of heights!).  Once at the top, we explored the small town to see the monks' residences and the square and basilica.  The whole place is unlike any place I've been... just a few building built into the side of a mountain with huge cliffs dropping to the ground below and high rocks above.  For most people in Barcelona, this is a must-see when you visit and for the views alone, I must agree (even if I was scared of the height and dropoffs the entire time, as Jessica can attest!).

Costa Brava - To get the true Spain-in-August experience, we booked two nights in the Costa Brava at Hotel Aigua Blava.  The Costa Brava is an area on the northeastern coast of Spain with jagged rocky shorelines and spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea.  Our hotel was located on a small bluff overlooking a bay filled with boats of all sizes... a perfect view to wake up to each morning.  We spent most of our time here relaxing by the pool (which also overlooked the bay) since the rest of our trip was more hectic, and we enjoyed every second of it.  It was great to sit by the pool reading with a Fanta or water or Coke Zero or beer and not have to worry about anything else... I think it's just what we both needed!  We didn't travel to any of the other beaches in the area (and there are MANY) which is what a lot of locals do, but I couldn't have asked for a better getaway for a few days.

Camp Nou - The final "major" activity for Jessica's visit was the Barca - Real Madrid match at the Camp Nou.  Neither of us had ever been to a futbol match before, and this was quite a way to break in as we saw one of the biggest rivalries in the world featuring the two best players as well as a host of other world-class talents.  The game was exciting... five goals were scored in the second half and Barcelona won by a score of 3-2.  We saw goals by Messi, Ronaldo, and Xavi among others, and even got into the Barca cheers by the end of the 90 minutes!  Because of the game time (10:30 PM to avoid the heat, which was still BRUTAL!), we booked a hotel near the stadium for the night, which ended up being fantastic.  It was the most modern, and nicest, Hilton I've ever stayed in, and we were given a room on the executive floor so we could enjoy the extra perks.  I cannot recommend this hotel enough for anyone traveling to the city; it is also located just a block from an upscale mall as well as a short subway ride to the center of the city.  The day and night spent at and near the hotel before the game, plus the game itself , made for a perfect ending to Jessica's visit!

I am 26 days away from returning home and cannot wait!  Jessica and I loved our time here together, but nothing can replace being home in Clayton (and with Berkley!).  Still, we experienced so much of Barcelona and the areas around it in her two visits, and I'm so thankful we had the opportunity for that.  Seeing a different country, and a different culture, adds so much to my understanding of the people as well as my appreciation of the life that I am fortunate enough to have.  While there is no place like home, there are also very few places as vibrant, enjoyable, and impressive as Barcelona.