Spanish Memories - #1

#1 - The Spanish People

I have never been much of a tourist, and while I love food and sports (as my countdown can prove), I use both as ways to foster social gatherings.  Fortunately for me during my six months here in Spain, I met an incredible group of people at work to learn and enjoy the Catalan culture with.  It is great to tour around Barcelona and to try new and exciting food, but the core of living (for me) is about relationships and interactions, and the people I met helped to fill (as much as possible) the large void of being away from Jessica, Berkley, family, and friends.

Starting on my first day of work, each and every person I met at the office made a point to say hello each day, to help me wherever they could, and to make me feel as much at home as possible away from North Carolina.  As the days and weeks passed, I became friends with the other engineers, joining them for beers after work on Fridays, nights out on the weekend, and even a few rounds of pitch-and-putt golf.  In the second half of my stay here, everything became less about me being an American and instead about just being co-workers and friends.  Emails with photoshopped pictures were passed around, inside jokes started, and everything evolved into what I'd consider "normal" friendships.

Now that it's time for me to return to North Carolina, I realize how much I'll miss seeing everyone each day in the office.  I feel like the bond I've formed here at work is different than the ones at past jobs because I had to rely on these people for EVERYTHING, and they always helped.  I am hopeful that some will visit our North Carolina site and I'll be able to show them around and be their help just the way they were for me, because I don't know how else to show my appreciation.

At the start of this assignment, I really had no idea what to expect.  Jessica and I worked very hard to get through the tough time apart, and we're just a few days away!  I knew there would be great food and an exciting city, but I didn't think much about my daily life here.  Now that I am packing to come back home, I realize that the experience here for me was mostly about meeting new people and understanding their culture, both in and out of the workplace.  I'll take back a million memories from my time in Spain, but the ones I'll remember most, and hope to keep creating, are the relationships I made and good times I had with my friends here.  Tourists can experience numbers 2-20 on my list, but not #1.

#2 - Mas Albereda
#3 - El Clasico
#4 - Espai Sucre
#5 - Nose-to-Tail Eating

#6 - Costa Brava

#7 - Spanish Ham

#8 - Cerveceria Catalana

#9 - La Sagrada Familia

#10 - Hilton Barcelona

#11 - Bocadillos

#12 - Octopus with Paprika

#13 - MariscCo

#14 - Bar Londen

#15 - Duck Confit is Everywhere

#16 - McDonalds

#17 - American Fox Television

#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley

#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub

#20 - Prices Include Tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #5, 4, 3, and 2

Upon completion of today's blog, there only remains the top item on my list.  In addition to the 20ish items I've covered, there are hundreds of others that have made the six month experience here in Spain incredible! 

To continue the countdown...

#5 - Nose-to-Tail Eating

For those unfamiliar with the concept, nose-to-tail eating is the idea that all parts of an animal can be used for one thing or another in a kitchen, frequently with surprisingly great results.  This idea is MUCH more prevalent in Spain, and while it is gaining momentum in America, I appreciated the chance to try so much variety here.  What follows is a list with a few of the dishes I tried during my stay:

• Pig trotter (pictured above) - Probably my favorite; the flavor was rich with a perfect mix of textures
• Cudillo (pork elbow) - Similar to a lamb shank in appearance, excellent flavor, and texture
• Shrimp heads - The flavor is great, and stronger than the shrimp body; odd texture and method for eating though
• Morros - Fried pieces of pork taken from in around the cheek... delicious
• Murcilla - Blood sausage that is made from pork, rice, and onions; my second favorite style of sausage here behind the typical butifarra

The old adage of "don't knock it until you try it" certainly applies to Spanish cuisine.  I would have missed some GREAT food if I had been discouraged by the name or the description, and instead I was able to take full advantage!

#4 - Espai Sucre

Jessica and I enjoyed Espai Sucre during her two-week stay here.  Below is my blog from our visit (including mention of the best pork dish I had here in Spain!):

"Espai Sucre (http://www.espaisucre.com/) is a restaurant that specializes in desserts with a focus on molecular gastronomy and unique flavor combinations.  Instead of serving typical savory courses and then having a dessert menu, they actually offer full menus of desserts only (as well as two options where they create one or two savory courses integrated with the sweet).  For our meal, Jessica chose the five-course dessert option while I selected the six-course menu with two savory items (octopus in my second course, pork in my third).  To best understand the meal, I'd suggest you look at our pictures on Instagram, but for a quick summary:

- The dishes all looked and tasted incredible.  Each had unique flavor combinations (often times matching fresh herbs with fruit flavors as well as chocolates, coffees, and even tobacco) as well as varying textures, with foams, ices, jellies, creams, and even tapioca in my final course.  The colors were great too... bright yellows and light greens contrasted with reds and whites and dark chocolates.  Just viewing the plate was satisfying I thought!
- The pork dish I had, covered with a coffee streusel, was one of the five best flavors I've tried in my life.  It was a high quality rib cut, but tasted more like a perfectly braised belly piece with a meatier consistency.  The coffee crunch was excellent as well, and I've never had a better reduced pork sauce than this one.
- Even with the complex courses, sometimes pairing five and six flavors, I found (with one exception) that each ingredient served a purpose and the best bites were ones with every component included.
- Service was incredible.  The restaurant only has six tables I think, and each course is explained perfectly by the two servers.  For us, the main waiter was great describing the wines as well, and generally led us through the meal.  Rarely do I feel that service adds or takes away much from my experience, but here it was integral to our enjoyment!"

I cannot make a good case that you must try Espai Sucre as part of the "true" Spanish experience when visiting Barcelona.  However, it is the most interesting, unique restaurant I've ever eaten in, and one I'd recommend to all people, particularly those that are fans of molecular gastronomy.

#3 - El Clasico at Camp Nou

Our trip to Camp Nou for the Barca - Real Madrid match was fantastic.  Neither Jessica nor I had ever been to a game, and to take in one of the world's best sports rivalries with 90,000+ other fans was the perfect way to do it.  We saw five goals, including scores from Messi and Ronaldo, and watched as Barca held on for a 3-2 victory.  Our seats were set right at midfield and we were able to see all of the action!  I have nothing else to compare this experience to, but I am guessing it spoiled me as a futbol fan, as I'll always now use it as my benchmark.  If you cannot see a match when you visit Barcelona, at least go through the tour of Camp Nou to get a feeling for what major club soccer feels like!

#2 - Mas Albereda
 



Jessica and I spent our first wedding anniversary together at this wonderful hotel and restaurant.  Every detail was perfect and it was a trip that both of us will never forget!  My blog from May is below, which highlights the incredible meal we had, as well as some details of the hotel.

"For our anniversary day, we ventured to a northern village outside of Vic to celebrate in a more relaxed, calm environment.  We stayed at a farmhouse that has been converted into a modern hotel and restaurant called Mas Albereda (http://www.masalbereda.com/).  Even though it was rainy, we thoroughly enjoyed the grounds, the peacefulness, and the accommodations at the hotel.  Jessica was able to get a massage while I watched a Spanish game show (the details of which I neither understand nor can explain) before dinner. 

We had a drink at their bar, which was a running joke for Jessica and me.  Here in Spain, it is very common for everyone to say, "Let's take a beer" instead of "Let's have a beer" like many would say in America.  I really like this different way of saying it, so I asked every ten minutes whether we could "take" a drink before she finally conceded.  I am going to try to get this phrase to stick when I come back to Clayton for sure.

Dinner at Mas Albereda was magnificent... this could really be its own post but for the sake of time and attention span, I'll summarize as best I can.  We shared a bottle of local red wine that, to a novice like me, was great.  The meal started with a HUGE fresh garden salad for Jessica and cod fritters for me that were so incredibly light, I honestly thought they could float in the air.  If you take a standard hush puppy and cut the density 100 times, you're probably close to what these were.  The flavor was just strong enough to remind you it was cod but not overpowering.  Honestly, it was one of the most impressive fried food executions I've ever had.

As strong as the meal started, the main course was another level up.  Jessica had a whole veal tenderloin (seriously, it was probably 18 ounces!) coupled with a mushroom and potato hash.  Cleverly, the chef included a scorching hot ceramic tile on the plate allowing the diner to further "cook" their meat if they desired.  In this case, they served the tenderloin medium rare so Jessica could just touch it off to get to medium while I could enjoy as is.  My meal, called on the menu as "Pig trotter and black sausage shrimp ravioli", was my first real taste of molecular gastronomy.  Instead of using pasta, the shrimp were the ravioli, pounded thin and then "glued" together somehow to hold the filling.  I have seen on shows before the use of protein glue to get this type of effect, so maybe that is what was used.  Regardless, the shrimp were amazingly sweet on their own and then just perfect when matched with the meaty pork products inside.  Visually, I was stunned (in a good way!) when the plate came and somehow the taste even exceeded the presentation.  Dessert was a rich chocolate brownie with strawberries and ice cream... delicious but not as good as the first two courses for me!"

Mas Albereda is about an hour north of Barcelona, and may not be a popular tourist spot if even for a night.  Jessica and I, though, will always hold the hotel and staff in a special place as they provided the best first anniversary I could have imagined, while allowing us to celebrate the Catalan way of living!

#6 - Costa Brava

#7 - Spanish Ham

#8 - Cerveceria Catalana

#9 - La Sagrada Familia

#10 - Hilton Barcelona

#11 - Bocadillos

#12 - Octopus with Paprika

#13 - MariscCo

#14 - Bar Londen

#15 - Duck Confit is Everywhere

#16 - McDonalds

#17 - American Fox Television

#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley

#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub

#20 - Prices Include Tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #6 and 7

As I approach the Top 5 on my list, I wanted to add some "Other memories receiving votes" to the countdown since I forgot and / or ran out of room for everything.  And so, here they are:

• Spanish language - I've improved a fair amount in the past couple of months, but more so in my writing and speaking than my listening (which is still near impossible).  I now feel confident that I could communicate, at least basically, with someone here who speaks no English.  Also, my friends at work have taught me a few of the "off-color" sayings and that's always enjoyable. 
• Passeig de Gracia - I spent a great deal of my time in Barcelona on this very street; it has nice shops, good restaurants, and interesting architecture.  It's a wonderful place to start a tour of the city, and I'd recommend La Vinoteca Torres as a good place to eat and have a glass of wine (even if the prices are a little high, the food is incredible).  You can also see two Gaudi houses.
• Picasso Museum - By no means am I an art scholar, but I really enjoyed seeing Picasso's "evolution" as a painter.  The museum is tucked away in the Gotic area, and is seamlessly fits into the neighborhood (except for the long lines waiting to get in).
• Rancid concert - I already mentioned this at the beginning of the countdown, but it was truly great.
• Palau Musica Catalana - This is the most famous concert hall in Barcelona, it is absolutely gorgeous inside.  Jessica and I took the ~ 50 minute tour and it is well worth your time.

#7 - Spanish Ham

Spanish ham, called "jamon" (and pronounced ha-moan) here, is arguably the most respected and important single ingredient in Barcelona.  People here eat it on sandwiches, alone with olive oil, on bread with tomato, and incorporated into many dishes.  There are so many different grades and qualities but the best is Iberico, which can be identified by the black nail on the pig trotter (and are fed acorns to increase flavor).

One of the coolest things about the ham here is seeing the shops with full pig legs hanging, and watching the worker slice off individual pieces as you order.  The color (dark purple) and aroma (heavenly) are so different from any of the ham in America; I don't even really consider the two from the same food group!

No matter where you go in Barcelona, you'll see shops selling the Iberico ham.  And knowing that you don't have the chance to try it when you leave, you'll always want to stop if just for a single slice.

#6 - Costa Brava

For part of our two week vacation in August, Jessica and I spent two nights in the Costa Brava.  I wrote about the experience in a prior blog and have copied that below...

"To get the true Spain-in-August experience, we booked two nights in the Costa Brava at Hotel Aigua Blava.  The Costa Brava is an area on the northeastern coast of Spain with jagged rocky shorelines and spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea.  Our hotel was located on a small bluff overlooking a bay filled with boats of all sizes... a perfect view to wake up to each morning.  We spent most of our time here relaxing by the pool (which also overlooked the bay) since the rest of our trip was more hectic, and we enjoyed every second of it.  It was great to sit by the pool reading with a Fanta or water or Coke Zero or beer and not have to worry about anything else... I think it's just what we both needed!  We didn't travel to any of the other beaches in the area (and there are MANY) which is what a lot of locals do, but I couldn't have asked for a better getaway for a few days."

While our short stay limited the chance to see other beaches and towns (which are all known for their food, culture, and history), we saw enough in our two days to understand why the area is so popular for tourists and Spanish people alike.  The Costa Brava, with its breathtaking views, cool water, and relaxed pace of life, definitely lived up to its billing as a world class travel destination!

#8 - Cerveceria Catalana
#9 - La Sagrada Familia
#10 - Hilton Barcelona
#11 - Bocadillos
#12 - Octopus with Paprika
#13 - MariscCo
#14 - Bar Londen
#15 - Duck Confit is Everywhere
#16 - McDonalds
#17 - American Fox Television
#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley
#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub
#20 - Prices Include Tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #8, 9, and 10

At the halfway point, I've covered mostly the random things in Spain that offered me a link to home.  I then added a few of the regional foods (which will continue), and now will begin with the major sites and events that I experienced while here.

#10 - Hilton Barcelona

The Hilton Barcelona benefits on this list from two things... low expectations and being part of Jessica's and my night at the Camp Nou for El Clasico.  It's not particularly Spanish but the hotel, its bar, its restaurant, and its location really were great during our visit so I wanted to include it (it is clearly overranked but oh well).  To summarize, I've made a list:

- The hotel seems brand new and is extremely modern (which I always like).
- The bar served random candied nuts with our drinks, and the bar tenders gave us a crash course on attending the match at Camp Nou.
- The outdoor restaurant had an innovative, almost Indian take on patatas bravas.  They served 10 cubed potatoes; half in a green spicy sauce and half in red.  It looked like a checkboard on the plate.
- We were given a room on the executive floor with access to snacks and free drinks during the afternoon.  This was critical to our pre-game plans.
- Just a block away from the hotel is an upscale mall that has a cool market in the underground floor worth visiting for the sights and smells.
- The hotel service was incredible.
- We could walk to and from the futbol match in 10-15 minutes.

If you are in Barcelona and need a place to stay, I cannot recommend this Hilton enough (it's the Hilton not as close to the beach but more in the city center).

# 9 - La Sagrada Familia (and all Gaudi works)

La Sagrada Familia is easily the most famous, and popular, tourist site in Barcelona.  It is a mammoth cathedral designed and started by Gaudi, the best and most famous architect here in Catalonia (and one of the best in the world I can only assume).  In addition to this attraction, Gaudi also designed two houses on Passeig de Gracia (Casa Batllo and Casa Pedrera) and Parc Guell, all of which are worth seeing and made in very typical Gaudi fashion.

For me, Sagrada Familia is probably the most impressive man-made tourist attraction I've ever seen (and it inexplicably ranks 9th here, an indictment of my bias towards food and experiences).  The outside, which is still under construction, has massive towers reaching high into the sky, and intricate design work around the entire outer wall.  Without ever stepping foot inside, you can see such detail and creativity that some people don't bother with the paid tour and instead just look from outside the gate.  For me, though, the inside is far, far better.

Stepping into the main area of the church, I was struck by how immense and modern everything was.  The outside looks weathered and ancient; the inside clean and brand-new.  As the picture above shows, there are columns reaching to the ceiling and stained glass all throughout, both of a size that I've never encountered before.  Further, there is a 1000 seat choir area as well as spiral staircases with glass railings in the corners of the cathedral that wrap up to the higher floors.  Just the idea that someone could conceive this design and then carry it out (with help from others of course) is amazing to me.

I have yet to see any set of pictures that do justice to the inside of La Sagrada Familia.  It is truly something that must be seen in-person, and it's worth whatever wait you face when you arrive outside.  Those who see only the outside see a great building; those that go inside EXPERIENCE the architecture and vision of Gaudi.

#8 - Cerveceria Catalana

I've already written about Cerveceria Catalana before, so I'll post that below.  Since that initial visit, I've been back four or five times and enjoyed it just as much with each trip.  I tend to stick with the things I know (croquettes, salmon crudo, jamon, etc.) but always see so many good new tastes that I wish I always had this place at my disposal!

Here is what I wrote...

"The first night in Barcelona, I tried Cerveceria Catalana, a true tapas bar in downtown, with my boss and another co-worker.  We went during what would be happy hour here (people eat dinner around 9:30 PM or so and we went at 7:45 PM) and the place was PACKED.  It had many tables in the back of the restaurant, but the front basically had two sushi-type bars, one on each wall.  In the "display" glass, there were countless different tapas, all of which looked great.  The tapas "bar tenders" would then take orders, either by name or by people pointing and shouting, and it created quite a unique, awesome, and chaotic experience in the restaurant!  With people jam packed inside, I'm not quite sure how the server figured out who ordered and ate what, but they did and everything was fantastic.

All of the items were served on top of a small piece of bread... I believe this style of tapas has a specific name that escapes me though.  We tried the following: ham, salmon crudo (which was AMAZING), sliders, veal, grilled shrimp, and croquettes.  My favorite were the grilled shrimp; they were cooked so perfectly that they remained tender and juicy without seeming to be undercooked.  After trying these shrimp, I feel like I've never had another effort that wasn't slightly overcooked!  Even the burger, which I wasn't too sure would be good, was excellent.  They topped it with very sweet caramelized onions and cheese and in one bite, I was in heaven."

I am sure this place is a "touristy" spot, but that's only because it truly is incredible.  I would say it's the one MUST-GO place in Barcelona to me, if just for the experience of a tapas bar (not to mention the delectable food and reasonable cost).  When I come back to see Barcelona, this will be first on my list!



#11 - Bocadillos
#12 - Octopus with Paprika
#13 - MariscCo
#14 - Bar Londen
#15 - Duck Confit is Everywhere
#16 - McDonalds
#17 - American Fox Television
#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley
#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub
#20 - Prices Include Tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #11, 12, and 13

Major food theme on the countdown today...

#13 - MariscCo

Barcelona prides itself on serving extremely fresh seafood, and my #13 memory celebrates this fact.  At MariscCo (which I found searching through restaurant reviews online), you choose your meal from various fish and shellfish presented "market style" (shown above) at the front of the restaurant, and then wait as everything is cooked in their open kitchen.  At the counter, you select from a variety of shrimp, lobster (which is still alive), crab, monkfish, oysters, mussels, tuna, and other fishes.  I've never encountered such a place in America, but it is a great way to pick what looks good and then have it prepared any way that you'd like (although they have recommendations which I've always found to be great).

The two staples which I've ordered on all my visits are the king prawns and octopus.  The shrimp is served head-on in a delicious garlic olive oil, while the octopus is served in the typical fashion with paprika.  Both dishes are incredibly tender and cooked just until the seafood is ready; too often shrimp and octopus are chewy but here the texture is indescribably good.  My last trip, I had their tuna which was also excellent... seared on a flat-top for a minute on each side and then served with a simple soy sauce.  The quality of the tuna, served rare, was extremely high and the flavor (the meaty fish coupled with the soy and the seared edges) was fantastic.

For me, MariscCo is a great celebration of the local seafood available in Barcelona.  The front display and the simple but delicious cooking methods highlight everything that is good about the cuisine here.  While American seafood restaurants mostly center their dishes around a particular item, MariscCo keeps with the "tapas" way by offering portions of any size (picked by the customer) so that a meal can be one main course, or a collection of several small samples!

#12 - Octopus with Paprika

One of the most common, and delicious, Spanish dishes is octopus served with paprika and potatoes.  Other than duck confit, it's probably the one meal I've tried more than any other here.  With few exceptions, the octopus is served cut into coin-shaped pieces and then coated with paprika and olive oil.  For whatever reason, I find that the flavor combination here is PERFECT; the tender octopus has a very mild flavor (barely tasting like seafood) with  a nice salty quality that magnifies the taste of the paprika.  It is critical that the octopus be prepared well, so that it is tender rather than gummy (I've had one case where it was somewhat gummy and dry, and while it was still okay, it wouldn't qualify for this list in that state), which provides the whole dish with a unique texture-and-flavor match that I've never found anywhere else. 

Sadly, I've only had this dish ONCE in America, and that was in a Spanish restaurant in Philadelphia.  It is one of the foods I'll definitely miss when I return back to Clayton... and one that isn't quite so simple to make at home!

#11 - Bocadillos

Spain's answer to an American sub is the bocadillo... typically some sort of pork "deli" meat (Spanish ham, sausages, salami, bacon, etc.) served on fresh baked bread with tomato rubbed in.  Bocadillos are commonly served for breakfast (between 9-10:30 AM here) and are so simple yet ridiculously good.  First, the tomato inclusion is incredible... it is sweet and makes everything taste so fresh (infinitely better than a tomato slice).  Next, the fresh baked bread makes a huge difference as it is crisp on the outside but airy inside.  And finally, the star of the sandwich is whatever meat you select... the ham, bacon, and fuet (a type of salami is probably the best explanation) versions are my favorites, and really you cannot go wrong.  When I return home, my first trip to the grocery store will be spent collecting ingredients to make bocadillos of my own, allowing me to savor the basic and delicious staple of the Spanish breakfast.

#14 - Bar Londen
#15 - Duck Confit is Everywhere
#16 - McDonalds
#17 - American Fox Television
#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley
#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub
#20 - Prices Include Tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #14

Wherever you live, it's important to find one or two places that you can rely on for good food, good drinks, and a nice atmosphere.  Fortunately for me, that place in Granollers was only a block from my hotel.

#14 - Bar Londen

When I first saw Bar Londen, I hoped it would be an English bar that for some reason chose to set up shop in Granollers.  This was not the case, but everything worked out anyway.  Bar Londen is typical of the Spanish bars in and around Barcelona; they serve tapas, sandwiches, and mostly beer (for liquor drinkers in Spain, be aware that they made the drinks probably 2-3 times as strong as in America and in tall glass...  also no place has Crown Royal somehow).  There are seats inside and out on the sidewalk, and they have a very neighborhood-y loyal clientele.

After my first or second visit where the workers figured out I was American, I was greeted with short English sentences, which was a nice touch.  No matter how poorly I asked questions in Spanish (at first, I didn't even try but even today, it's not always pretty), they always helped and got me what I needed.  This welcoming atmosphere provided a good spot for me to come after work, or for a sandwich on the weekend, just to relax and for a few minutes not worry that I was in a different country across the ocean from the US.

My three favorite dishes here were chicken croquettes (basically chicken soup that has been "soaked" into flour and then deep-friend... delicious), patatas bravas (pictured above... fried cubed potatoes in a spicy mayo sauce), and their bacon sandwich (basically a bacon sub) with tomato rubbed on the bread (a classic in Catalan cuisine, and one of the best things that exists).  I never really strayed from these three dishes, and I was always happy with the results.  Sure, nothing was gourmet, but it was the closest equivalent to American bar food I could find and that's an important food group for me!

Spanish culture is much different than American when it comes to places like this... in America, few people  (if any) would go to their local bar just to sit outside for an hour, talk, and have a Coke.  Here, it's quite common.  As a result, the Spaniards see one another often and create their social circle by being out and about rather than isolated in their flats (another reason may be the limited living space I suppose).  Bar Londen is a great example of this, and one I wish existed more in the US; nothing fancy or expensive but a great place to relax, have a drink or snacks, and spend time with your friends.

#15 - Duck Confit is Everywhere
#16 - McDonalds
#17 - American Fox Television
#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley
#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub
#20 - Prices Include Tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #15

My time here in Spain, contrary to what the first few items on the countdown suggest, has been mostly filled with amazing experiences and great regional food.  And so onto my fifteenth memory...

#15 - Duck confit is EVERYWHERE!

Before arriving in Spain, I'd been fortunate enough to have duck confit maybe five or six times (including the best version I've ever had, even still, at Blue Ribbon Bakery in New York) in my life.  More common in America is the duck breast, although I'm not totally sure why since it seems to me that slow cooking a bone-in duck leg in its own fat would be far simpler than expertly grilling the breast to medium rare.  Anyway, the flavor of duck confit is so incredibly rich, flavorful, and unique that I order it EVERY time I see it on a menu.

That brings me to Spain... where it is ALWAYS on the menu!  Within my first two weeks here, I'd already had duck confit twice and started to realize that it was as common as a chicken breast would be in the States.  Except for neighborhood bars and tapas restaurants, I am not sure I've been somewhere where I couldn't order it.  Even in the grocery store, I was able to buy a frozen version that I then pan-heated into pure deliciousness (added bonus for the aroma in my room the rest of the night!).

Almost invariably, duck confit here (called confit de pato) is served with fruit in a sweet sauce, a classic and perfect pairing to contrast with the richness of the meat.  I would guess I've had it eight or nine times in Spain, and the only differentiating factor for me when comparing the various versions is how crispy the particular restaurant can get the skin (always the best part of duck).  The picture above, showing the leg served in a wonderful apricot sauce, probably was the winner in the past five months, but even the worst version was fantastic. 

For those of you who have never tried this wonderful dish, PLEASE take advantage when you see it on a menu in America.  Or just come to Spain and you'll always have a chance at your next meal...

#16 - McDonalds
#17 - American Fox Television
#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley
#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub
#20 - Prices Include Tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #16 & 17

Today's double entry comes from the "reminders of America" category.  As much as I have enjoyed experiencing Spain and everything it has to offer, sometimes it's nice to get a taste (both figuratively and literally) of home.

#17 - American Fox Television

Over my time here, I have made dramatic improvements in my use and understanding of the Spanish language.  Unfortunately, the "start" point of that curve was at "zero" level, so I am still getting familiar speaking and writing, without much ability to listen and understand.  This problem at work has been mitigated by everyone speaking English so well but at my hotel room, it's a little tougher as I have down time and like to enjoy television now and then. 

Fortunately for me, one of the three English channels is Fox (not the same as we have in America as it shows many various shows from ABC, NBC, and CBS also) and I'm treated to the Simpsons, Futurama, and the Family Guy each weekend.  While it sounds boring to spend my time in a foreign country watching something I could see at home, after five months of touring all around and through Barcelona, I sometimes need a break.  Realistically, I've probably seen more of these three shows here than I have in the past five years combined at home... and for that, I'm thankful!

PS - The Fox here also shows "Modern Family", "Grey's Anatomy", and "How I Met Your Mother" plus three shows I'd never heard of before... "Body of Proof" (which is great), "Law and Order: UK" (awful), and some show about a psychic paramedic which is decent.

#16 - McDonalds

No matter how great the food is here, and it is GREAT, every once in a while I crave some chicken nuggets and fries.  Thankfully, Spain can support this habit with a scattering of McDonalds.  Here are some of the best parts of the Spanish McDonalds:

- They have the same menu PLUS extra items including chicken wings (delicious) and ice cream cones with Kit Kats randomly in them.

- All of the food is cooked fresh, so it's always incredible.  I've only tried the nuggets and fries but they are consistently as good as any I get in the States.

- The interior decor of the two restaurants I've tried is beyond modern, and colorful also.

- Value Meals are called "McMeals".

So there are numbers 17 and 16, keeping me in touch with my "American heritage" while living abroad.  To find more details for numbers 20-18 below, check my main site.

#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley

#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub

#20 - Prices include tax in Spain

Spanish Memories - #18

I am continuing with my countdown of the 20 memorable things for me in Spain during my assignment.  You can link through the main page if you want to read about numbers 19 and 20, but next up is...

#18 - The Granollers Bowling Alley

After spending my first two weeks here in Spain basically sitting in my hotel room (my bum ankle did not help things but I wasn't exactly turning down opportunities left and right either), I was invited to go bowling with some friends from work on the third Saturday.  At the time, I wasn't quite sure what to expect as I'd noticed many differences between the Spanish and American cultures already, but it was my first activity out so I jumped at the chance.

Two seconds after entering the bowling complex, I felt at home, and this small sense of comfort probably helped me for the balance of the time here!  Had I been dropped into an alley in Clayton, NC or Pittsburgh, PA, or really anywhere in the United States, I'm not sure I would have seen any differences from what I saw here.  The typical shoe counter greeted us as we walked in, and in the distance I saw a bar as well as a ticket counter for the countless arcade games being played by young kids all around.  The bowling lanes themselves were, to my amateur eye, the same length and width that I was used to, and the ball weights were even listed in pounds (which caused confusion in my boss the day before, as he claimed the balls weighed 10-15 kilograms, which would be over 20 pounds!). 

My bowling effort was poor, which I blamed on my ankle although that was of minimal consequence.  But the most important discovery came in between the first and second game.  On my way to the restroom, I saw my favorite bar game of all time... Pop-a-Shot basketball!  Best of all, everything was in English and it had a running high score, giving me a target to beat.  Because we were bowling with eight or so people, I had PLENTY of time to get to work on the scoring record.

After one warm up game, I got into my groove and began storming towards the high score (which was somewhere in the low 300s when I started I think).  After my third or fourth game, I had reached the high score but knew I could do even better.  At just this time, a small group of kids who had been playing started to gather around (at a safe distance) to see the American at work.  I am proud to say that, in front of a small crowd of maybe 5 kids, I put up an unfathomable 351 (shown above, and I eased up at the end) that left the group in awe!

For me, the experiences of bowling and playing arcade basketball ball showed me that I had a few "connections" to American living here if I needed them.  Surprisingly, I haven't been back and I suppose that speaks mostly to how I've been able to connect with "Spanish living" relatively well.  Still though, I probably should make one more visit just to check and see if I still have the machine record...

19. Scobie's Irish Pub

20. Prices include tax in Spain

Top 20 Spanish Memories

As my time here in Spain winds down (three weeks and counting), I wanted to capture some of the specific memories that I'll keep when I return to North Carolina.  What will follow in the next few weeks is a list of the "Top 20" things from my time in Spain.  Of course, I already realized I missed one major thing (the Rancid concert which I detailed here) that should be Top 10 or Top 5, so there are probably gaps and activities out of order, but I suppose it's better than nothing.  Some items are places Jessica and I traveled or ate, others are Barcelona tourist sights, and a few are silly conveniences or quirks of Spain that I enjoyed or that made my time here a bit easier.  Anyway, I hope this list can provide a good look into what it's like living in Spain for five months as an American.

Today starts with a two-for-one... enjoy!

#20 - Prices in Spain INCLUDE tax!

Even I realize how inane this first item sounds (and I don't want people to mistake that this trait is inherently better than the Olympic Port or something else that didn't make the list), but it was a little feature of Spain that I truly enjoyed.  Too often in America, I want to buy something that costs $5 but then it ends up being $5.35 or whatever the sales tax is in a particular state on a particular day and I'm annoyed with change in my pocket the rest of the day.  Here in Spain... NO PROBLEM!  If something costs 2 euros, it costs 2 euros and you don't need extra change to cover the "hidden" fee. 

For some reason, this always makes my bill at a restaurant seem a little cheaper.  I build in a tax and tip percentage in my mind (shockingly near 30% in the US) that basically doesn't exist here, and that is a WONDERFUL feeling... even if I am deceiving myself because the difference between the euro and the dollar basically cancels any benefit.  Still, this is a very satisfying method of displaying prices for an analytical, mathematical mind that appreciates taking a break every once in a while.  I implore the US to adopt this... stop fooling the consumer with prices and while you're at it, let's round gas prices up the $0.001 cent rather than having that silly small 9 at the end.

#19 - Scobie's Irish Pub

Every once in a while, it was nice to go somewhere that I knew had an English-speaking bartender and would be showing sports I was interested in.  For me, Scobie's filled this need perfectly.  Located a block away from Placa Cataluyna, Scobie's was owned and run by an Irish guy and had a bartender named Seamus who became a friend over the course of my visits; I even got the lowdown on how terrible it was for him to move from one apartment to another in the city.  The general friendliness here and the authentic Irish bar feel were both great.  Scobie's was one of the few places where I felt truly comfortable and more "at home", which made a big difference during some of the tougher stretches!

My best Scobie's memory came during the British Open, which is the one golf major timed well for living in Europe (rather than requiring me to stay up until 1 or 2 AM for the finish like the Masters or US Open).  I spent both Saturday and Sunday at Scobie's watching Adam Scott build up and then choke away his first major, all the while enjoying the witty Irish commentary of the bartenders and the company of fellow drinkers from the UK.  Throw in an excellent grilled ham and cheese sandwich (called a bikini in Spain for some reason) with crisp fries and I couldn't ask for much more.  Anyone who ventures to Barcelona from the States should pay Scobie's a visit; it won't disappoint.

Our Two Week Vacation

As most of you probably know, Jessica and I just shared a two week vacation exploring Barcelona and the surrounding areas.  Because of some passport issues, we weren't able to get to Paris or Rome but we still had the BEST time and saw so much more of Spain than we saw on our her first trip here!  It will be too difficult to capture everything that we did, so below I've just summarized a few of the activities that stand out (Jessica's blog will have others I'm sure, including her favorite fish pedicure!).  Additionally, throughout the two weeks we both posted many pictures and videos on Facebook and Instagram if you are interested.

Dining - As always, the food took center stage during our vacation.  I was able to try for the first time cod confit, roasted suckling pig, tuna and tomato tartare, and veal ribs (all of which were incredible really) as well as the typical Spanish foods that I've come to enjoy during my stay here.  One dining experience, though, was completely different than anything we have tried before, either here or in America...

Espai Sucre - Espai Sucre (http://www.espaisucre.com/) is a restaurant that specializes in desserts with a focus on molecular gastronomy and unique flavor combinations.  Instead of serving typical savory courses and then having a dessert menu, they actually offer full menus of desserts only (as well as two options where they create one or two savory courses integrated with the sweet).  For our meal, Jessica chose the five-course dessert option while I selected the six-course menu with two savory items (octopus in my second course, pork in my third).  To best understand the meal, I'd suggest you look at our pictures on Instagram, but for a quick summary:

- The dishes all looked and tasted incredible.  Each had unique flavor combinations (often times matching fresh herbs with fruit flavors as well as chocolates, coffees, and even tobacco) as well as varying textures, with foams, ices, jellies, creams, and even tapioca in my final course.  The colors were great too... bright yellows and light greens contrasted with reds and whites and dark chocolates.  Just viewing the plate was satisfying I thought!
- The pork dish I had, covered with a coffee streusel, was one of the five best flavors I've tried in my life.  It was a high quality rib cut, but tasted more like a perfectly braised belly piece with a meatier consistency.  The coffee crunch was excellent as well, and I've never had a better reduced pork sauce than this one.
- Even with the complex courses, sometimes pairing five and six flavors, I found (with one exception) that each ingredient served a purpose and the best bites were ones with every component included.
- Service was incredible.  The restaurant only has six tables I think, and each course is explained perfectly by the two servers.  For us, the main waiter was great describing the wines as well, and generally led us through the meal.  Rarely do I feel that service adds or takes away much from my experience, but here it was integral to our enjoyment!

Parc Guell - On Jessica's first visit, we missed this Barcelona spot so it was at the top of our list this time around.  The park is located in the northern part of the city, high on the hill sloping down towards the sea.  As a result, there are fantastic views of the entire urban landscape (in addition to the park itself, which features typical Gaudi architecture and many paths and greenery).  I enjoyed seeing the park and the views of Barcelona, but thought the whole thing was a bit too crowded and "touristy" for my taste.  It would be much better if the city was able to keep the random vendors outside of the park but it's highly unlikely I suppose.  Even still, if you are coming to the city and want to see all of the sights, this is a must visit place!

Wine Tours - We booked a wine tour for an area west of Barcelona, where we had the chance to visit three separate wineries.  The first (Jean Leon) was small but offered a great chance to see the whole process of making wine from start to finish, even allowing us the opportunity to try the ripe grapes!  Our second stop at Torres (which is the largest wine maker in the country) was more about the tasting, as we sampled three of their wines with a selection of cheeses.  I'd never done a true wine tasting and really enjoyed the combination of flavors as well as the information and "coaching" we were given to better understand the pairings.  The third stop (Freixenet) was where the Spanish version of champagne, called Cava, is made.  This tour was very interesting, as the cellars are 20 meters underground and we were able to tour through them with a guide describing the process as we went.  Overall, I enjoyed all three wineries for different reasons and found the tour to be interesting, fun, and delicious.  While seeing the sights IN Barcelona is probably best for travelers with limited time, this adventure was great and gives a nice overview of the various important Spanish wines.

Montserrat - The second day tour we booked was to Montserrat, a famous mountain outside of Barcelona that has great meaning to Catalan people.  The mountain is breathtaking, and the climb up to the "town" on a cog-wheel train is both amazing (with views) and terrifying (for those afraid of heights!).  Once at the top, we explored the small town to see the monks' residences and the square and basilica.  The whole place is unlike any place I've been... just a few building built into the side of a mountain with huge cliffs dropping to the ground below and high rocks above.  For most people in Barcelona, this is a must-see when you visit and for the views alone, I must agree (even if I was scared of the height and dropoffs the entire time, as Jessica can attest!).

Costa Brava - To get the true Spain-in-August experience, we booked two nights in the Costa Brava at Hotel Aigua Blava.  The Costa Brava is an area on the northeastern coast of Spain with jagged rocky shorelines and spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea.  Our hotel was located on a small bluff overlooking a bay filled with boats of all sizes... a perfect view to wake up to each morning.  We spent most of our time here relaxing by the pool (which also overlooked the bay) since the rest of our trip was more hectic, and we enjoyed every second of it.  It was great to sit by the pool reading with a Fanta or water or Coke Zero or beer and not have to worry about anything else... I think it's just what we both needed!  We didn't travel to any of the other beaches in the area (and there are MANY) which is what a lot of locals do, but I couldn't have asked for a better getaway for a few days.

Camp Nou - The final "major" activity for Jessica's visit was the Barca - Real Madrid match at the Camp Nou.  Neither of us had ever been to a futbol match before, and this was quite a way to break in as we saw one of the biggest rivalries in the world featuring the two best players as well as a host of other world-class talents.  The game was exciting... five goals were scored in the second half and Barcelona won by a score of 3-2.  We saw goals by Messi, Ronaldo, and Xavi among others, and even got into the Barca cheers by the end of the 90 minutes!  Because of the game time (10:30 PM to avoid the heat, which was still BRUTAL!), we booked a hotel near the stadium for the night, which ended up being fantastic.  It was the most modern, and nicest, Hilton I've ever stayed in, and we were given a room on the executive floor so we could enjoy the extra perks.  I cannot recommend this hotel enough for anyone traveling to the city; it is also located just a block from an upscale mall as well as a short subway ride to the center of the city.  The day and night spent at and near the hotel before the game, plus the game itself , made for a perfect ending to Jessica's visit!

I am 26 days away from returning home and cannot wait!  Jessica and I loved our time here together, but nothing can replace being home in Clayton (and with Berkley!).  Still, we experienced so much of Barcelona and the areas around it in her two visits, and I'm so thankful we had the opportunity for that.  Seeing a different country, and a different culture, adds so much to my understanding of the people as well as my appreciation of the life that I am fortunate enough to have.  While there is no place like home, there are also very few places as vibrant, enjoyable, and impressive as Barcelona.

Rancid in Barcelona

First, if you aren't interested in extreme details of the Rancid concert, feel free to stop reading (although thank you for still registering as a hit on my page).  Second, I apologize sincerely for the poor quality of the picture, but that's the best I could do last night.

When my brother first let me know that Rancid was coming to Barcelona while I was here, I didn't think too much of it.  My always pessimistic self thought it'd be hard to get to from Granollers, expensive, uncomfortable and possibly unsafe, and not the same seeing them after all of these years.  As I thought more about, though, I realized two things... 1) my musical listening life started just as Rancid started and 2) Rancid is arguably the most celebrated American punk band in history.  People will argue the Ramones but I don't agree; the Ramones may have been a pioneer but Rancid is a categorical force; constantly evolving without ever straying too far from where they started, creating a record label and countless side projects, ushering in the whole wave of Epitaph and Hellcat records (culminating in interest from MADONNA at one point in the 1990s!), serving as the foundation and gateway for my love of punk music, and most importantly still rocking the same today as they did when I saw them in 1996.  My time frame bias is certainly inherent to my argument, but I really do think they're THE American punk band.  And with that, I decided I must have a ticket!

Anyway, I arrived to Razzmatazz (the concert hall) a bit earlier than scheduled "doors open" time.  I am sure this will shock everyone who's ever been to a concert but they opened the doors later than planned!  I know, that never happens.  Anyway, while waiting, I took in the scenery and realized that the young kids (minus their lack of hygiene, piercings, tattoos, beers, cigarettes, and joints) were me from 15 years ago.  Sure, I was a middle class kid from the suburbs but I still LOVED seeing any punk concert I possibly could, and so did these people.  Throw in the old school t-shirts from the likes of Operation Ivy, the Business, the Addicts, and others, and it was like a flashback to Graffiti in Oakland.  Eventually, the doors opened and I entered for the first time in five years (when I saw the Street Dogs and Bouncing Souls in Chapel Hill).  The club itself was very similar to Avalon in Boston (which is maybe closed).  They host concerts "early" in the night and then turn into a dance club later.  Overall, it was nice with huge bars on each side and an upper balcony to watch from (although I chose ground level)

Whether in Spain, North Carolina, or Pittsburgh, the concerts are the same.  The opening band (Gas Drummers) were actually good but had an audience of 15 mostly standing and watching.  The next band, Klasse Kriminale, grew the audience to "crowded but not packed", and then Rancid made it so no one could move.  Good veteran move by the late arrivers here, they didn't miss too much really.

When Rancid took the stage, the crowd went rightfully crazy and "Radio" began (here is a link to the set list for the concert http://www.setlist.fm/setlists/rancid-13d6898d.html).  For those that have seen Rancid, you know it's ALL music when they start... in this case, they played 31 songs in 90 minutes or so, only breaking for a few words maybe five or six times (including Tim's gem of "This song is about being rejected, and it's called... Rejected!).  The set list was heavy on "And Out Come The Wolves" songs, which is understandable because a) it's the best album they've made and b) it's the most popular as well (the Barcelona fans seemed to know most every song, but they definitely had every word down from this album).  They mixed in enough songs from every album to satisfy any particular person's needs, and they even made sure to feature Matt Freeman (who looked EXACTLY like Paul Goydos the golfer) on a couple. 

Switching to appearances... Tim wore his customary hat and sported a "new to me" beard, Lars had a perfectly shaved head, and Brett Reed inexplicably had shoulder length hair and jumped on his drums periodically through the night.  In my memory, he was always the most calm so this was a bit jarring, but eventually I just assumed he'd changed over the past 15 years.  Aside from him, the three others had their typical stage presences (Tim spinning, Freeman doing very little, and Lars moving around and working the crowd a lot).

A few other notes..
- During "Red Hot Moon", they had a random girl from the audience perform the "rap" part and she absolutely killed it.  Never before have I seen such a performance from a random person; she earned the loud cheers she got when she finished (and she didn't linger on stage too long like so many others would... all around great effort by whomever she was).
- Lars playing "Wars End" alone is always great, and last night was no different.
- I was somewhat surprised they only played two songs from their newest album... poor marketing decision there.
- The crowd was overall very well-behaved.  I saw two minor fights but none of the "one guy decides to start running into people who aren't interested in having him run into them" move that is too frequent for my taste.
- The merchandise selection was shockingly bad... basically just album covers on the fronts of t-shirts.
- My personal favorite songs last night were "Olympic, WA", "Rejected", "Old Friend", "St. Mary", and "Journey to the End".

Suffice it to say, the concert was fantastic.  Rancid sounds as good live as any band I can think of... the music doesn't sound "produced" but it is also not the inaudible muddle of guitar and screaming that can happen a lot given the type of music and the venue.  Even Tim Armstrong, who has more wear on him than should be allowed for someone his age, nailed every big moment all night.  I don't know that this was the best concert I've seen, just because there are too many variables that go into that, but it certainly is my most memorable.  After not going for so long, it felt so good to be back again.  Not only did the live music sound so much better, but it brought back countless memories of growing up and seeing whatever lousy punk or ska bands would roll into Pittsburgh on a Tuesday night for $6.  And for all of those experiences, I have Rancid to thank.

Quick Update

Over the past week and a half, there hasn't been a lot going on for me outside of work.  Still, I've had a few interesting experiences that I can share:

Pitch and Putt Tournament - Fortunately for me, the schedulers for the annual pitch-and-putt competition between Grifols Maintenance, Grifols Engineering, and Grifols Holding chose a date when I could play (as part of the Engineering team).  After a warm up round the week before, which I mentioned in my last blog, I was ready to tackle the course again and improve on my mediocre effort.  I ended up scoring better by three or four shots, which was good enough to lead my team but not good enough for us to win.  Still, it was a wonderful effort followed by an even better dinner with traditional Spanish tapas to start, grilled duck breast for my main course, and fresh cheese with honey (the cheese was almost a cream more than cheese, but a solid consistency if that makes sense!) to finish.  The eleven other players were all very nice; I was challenged to speak more Spanish (which I am improving on with each day) and joined in on and was on the receiving end of many jokes through the afternoon and evening.  All in all, it was a successful day, even if we didn't win!

Movies in Barcelona - This past weekend, I went to the movie theater to see the newest Batman release.  Luckily for me, there  is a theater here that shows movies in their original language with Spanish subtitles so I was able to enjoy the movie in the "American" fashion rather than being confused for the full 165 minutes!  The movie theater was EXACTLY like one in America, except that stadium seating did not exist.  The concession stand, the general layout, everything else reminded me of Anywhere, USA in much the same way that the bowling alley did.  And in case you're wondering, I loved the movie and think it was the best of the three in this set (and I'll take Jessica to see it when she visits!).

Rancid Concert - I'll cover the concert in detail in my next post (for people interested in that type of thing) but to summarize... I was able to get a ticket to see Rancid on their 20th anniversary tour in Barcelona.  The concert venue, Razzmatazz, was located in an industrial area of the city, very similar to the area in Pittsburgh that had Metropol (at least back in the mid to late 1990s).  The crowd was typical, and I immediately realized that I'd "grown up" some from the last time I saw them play in 1996.  If I wasn't one of the oldest 10% of the people there, I'd be shocked.  Most kids seemed to be in their early 20s, and dressed in the standard legitimate t-shirts you'd expect (Operation Ivy, the Ramones, the Business, etc.).  Inside the concert hall, it was like a carbon copy of the United States with the setup and the poor sound quality!  Rancid, one of my favorite bands, was amazing and the other two groups were good as well.  The whole concert experience was a perfect reminder of my youth (which makes me sound and feel extremely old just typing it) and the enjoyment I had in every concert I attended.  When I get back to Raleigh, I am going to make a point to go more often to Cat's Cradle.

That's about it for the past 10 days.  Jessica arrives in less than two weeks, and our vacation is set.  Our new plan is for a 5 day trip to France followed by a few days at the Costa Brava in northern Spain, both of which will be perfect with the two of us here together!

Pitch and Putt in Spain

This week, I played pitch and putt after work with a few co-workers.  Unlike a standard golf course, a pitch and putt course is comprised solely on par 3s, in this case ranging from 40-120 meters (45 - 135 yards).  In addition to the short distances, the course has very small greens making for a challenging round of golf. 

My rust showed, as I shot +12 for the 18 holes.  I started slow (+7 after the first six) and then had a tough finish (+5 over my last 5 holes) so the in-between was actually quite good.  I found the course somewhat tough... the holes are short but require precise distance control because of the small greens and the slopes leading up to the putting surface.  I repeatedly hit my wedge long, leading to numerous difficult up-and-downs that would have been hard even in my midseason form.

We'll play again Tuesday, and I feel better prepared now that I've seen the course.  Pitch and putt is cool because our whole round (which was not particularly fast) lasted 2.5 hours and acts as a great social outing.  Very few golf balls are lost and your short game is tested a great deal.  I'm looking forward to my next round... my goal is +4 (which should help my team win the company tournament).

This afternoon, I went into Barcelona for lunch and to watch the British Open.  I found MariscCo (http://www.mariscco.com/) online and tried it on my own.  The concept of the restaurant is simple (and pictured on my Instagram @DKMiller327); there is a counter of fresh, raw seafood when you walk in and you simple select what you want and how much before taking your seat.  The host gives you the choice of cooking method and then the chef prepares whatever you've chosen and sends it out.

For lunch, I chose the octopus (cooked with paprika) and shrimp (which was prepared in olive oil and garlic).  After taking my seat, the octopus arrived almost immediately.  It was cooked perfectly; very tender, and salty, just the way I like it.  It was served on a plate with olive oil, allowing the paprika to turn almost into a sauce that then coated each bite of octopus and made for even more flavor and spiciness!  I thought the octopus was as good as, if not better than, the other efforts I've had here at Divinus and Cala Sila.  The portion was plentiful (a full tentacle) but only 7 euros which seems like a deal to me!

The shrimp, of which I ordered three, came after, and was even better than the octopus!  I successfully ate each of the heads and then peeled the bodies, letting them sit in the oil to soak in some of the flavor.  As I mentioned in an earlier post, the shrimp heads are absolutely delicious!  They have a much stronger taste than the mild body, but it is not offputting at all, instead just a magnified shrimpy flavor.  The bodies of these shrimp were bursting with flavor too... the salty, garlicky oil and the sweetness of the shrimp themselves both stood out and made me savor each bite.  The oil was so good that I actually asked for bread to dip through it, gathering both the garlic and the "leftover" shrimpiness with each piece.

I am not sure if MariscCo is well regarded, a tourist place, or something in between, but I was really impressed.  The service was great, but that was clearly secondary to the fresh seafood that carried huge flavors.  While I enjoy trying new places, I am seriously considering returning tomorrow to sample some of their other options (including large langostines and crab).  This is the first place I've seen offering such a variety of choices, and the chance to SEE them before selecting.  Even if I don't go back tomorrow, I'm definitely taking Jessica when she comes back to Barcelona next month!

Spanish Summer Dinner

Twice a year, the engineering group I work for in Grifols has a dinner together.  Fortunately, they scheduled the summer outing when I was back so I got to take in a typical Spanish celebration.  The event started at 4 PM and lasted (for me) until 3 AM as I was tired from the night before.  Others, though, went to a disco after and finally made it home more around 8 AM.  Even with a full night's rest, I am confident I could not have been in this group!

Before the actual dinner, many of the engineers met at the beach for an afternoon of swimming and sand futbol.  This was my first chance to go in the Mediterranean and I enjoyed it thoroughly; the waves were quite big and excellent for wading (the water was deep also) while the water itself was cool and salty.  It provided the perfect counterpoint to the heat of the afternoon.  After a quick swim, we played a game of 4-on-4 sand soccer.  In theory, I understand soccer and its strategy, but execution is a whole other matter.  After flailing around for 45 minutes or so, my team somehow led 5-4 and we called it a match.  Another quick swim followed, and then it was time for pre-dinner drinks.

First, I took a "shower" in the beach shower, which was fine except when a woman explained I couldn't use soap (as it was illegal somehow).  Luckily I was mostly done, but my swim trunks were full of suds with no hope of rinsing.  Only a minor problem, though, and it was time for the beach bar.  A group of 12-14 of us hung out for an hour or so and enjoyed what were probably the best mojitos I've ever had.  The mint was very fresh and the amount of sugar (which was more than I'm used to) gave the overall flavor the right amount of sweetness.  These were the perfect cap to a day at the beach.

The dinner was great as well... I had duck confit (always amazing) for my main course, and the following were served as starters (grades next to the dish):
- Ham on crunchy bread rubbed with tomato - A+
- Steamed shrimp - A+
- Fried baby squid - A
- Cod fritters - B+
- Mussels marinara - N/A
- Fideua - B
As is typical here in Spain, the appetizers were the major presence of the meal, and filled me enough that I didn't need my duck (which I of course ate anyway).  At the end of the dinner, I had to give a quick speech.  Everyone else struggled to fill their four-minute requirement but I powered through, hitting my stride just as the MC told me it was time to wrap up.  Even with an audience that doesn't capture every joke I make, I can still talk more than most anyone else!

The night ended at another beach dance bar, where I took it easy on the cocktails as I was the driver for the night.  The bar itself was cool, and the variety of music matched what I expected... a mix of dance music I knew and Spanish dance music that I'd expect to hear.  The crowd grew and grew as the night passed, probably hitting a peak around 2:30 AM or so.  I believe everything closed at 5 AM, but it's incredible to me just how much energy the Spaniards have to stay up drinking and dancing!

Overall, the experience of the dinner was fantastic.  The food, drinks, and company all made it such a unique and authentic "Spanish" fiesta.  These are the pieces of culture I've very much enjoyed experiencing while living here, and the things I'll miss when I head back to America.

Raleigh Restaurant Reviews

For the past two weeks, I was home in Clayton with Jessica marking the halfway point of my Spanish assignment.  It was great to be back in my own house with Jessica and Berkley spending time together and enjoying the life we have built over the past three years.  During my time home, we decided to try a few new restaurants as well as one of our favorites.  I've written up quick reviews below (and more pictures can be found on Instagram @DKMiller327).

Oro

Our first dinner out was at Oro (http://ororaleigh.com/), a new restaurant opened by chef and owner of the Mint, which has recently closed.  Oro serves small plates rather than typical meals, and has many choices for vegetarians and vegans in addition to offering many "typical" southern dishes with modern presentations.  I liked the set-up of the restaurant; the downstairs had several tables and a bar area while the upstairs had additional tables overlooking the floor below.  It feels more like a bar or club than a restaurant, which matches the type of food they serve I think.

We chose five dishes for our meal, and they were brought out over a period of an hour or so (one small issue... I think our waitress forgot to enter the last three choices so there was a large gap after the first two before we got the rest).  Everything we ordered was good, although the shrimp and grits, the corn, and the vegetarian spring rolls were not exceptional.  I'd certainly have them again, as they still had good flavor and slight twists on the standard versions (for instance, the corn was served with miso-spiced butter), but I would probably rather try something else.

On the other hand, the pork belly and BBQ chicken flatbread pizza were fantastic and certainly something I'd recommend to anyone trying Oro.  The pork belly, served as five large pieces in a sweet sauce, was both tender (in the fatty part) and crispy on the edges, which is the perfect way to prepare it.  I could have eaten twice as much, even if the serving they gave was more than enough for two people!  The flatbread was equally good... very fresh with thin, crispy bread and just the right amount of sauce, chicken, and cheese.  For our next visit, I think we'll sample a different variety of flatbread (as they have four I believe) but the BBQ chicken is certainly worth ordering.

Overall, I think Oro is worth a trip for anyone in Raleigh looking for a new, trendy place to eat before going out.  For two people, you can get away with three dishes and be full for the rest of the night.  I also would recommend ordering from the specialty cocktail list, and maybe Jessica can suggest her favorite since I forget what it was right now!

Beasley's

Jessica and I had been to Beasley's (http://www.ac-restaurants.com/beasleys/) once before for dinner with friends, but we wanted to try their new brunch menu and went on Saturday morning.  The restaurant fills up relatively quickly for brunch, although not as fast as Poole's Diner, but I'd recommend arriving at the opening time (11:30 AM) anyway.  One of the great benefits of eating brunch at Beasley's is the chance to order from either their brunch or dinner menu; this gives you MANY great options and allows you to have either a proper breakfast or lunch, or both if you're very hungry! 

I chose the biscuits with pork shoulder gravy, as I miss this dish living in Spain and know that Poole's Diner serves a great version.  In my opinion, Beasley's was even better as it came with two larger biscuits (cut diagonally into triangles for presentation I assume) and pork gravy that was filled with much more sausage.  Although the portion seemed made for two people at least, I finished the whole thing with ease!  I don't think I've had better biscuits and gravy anywhere, including Tupelo Honey Cafe in Asheville which had been the leader in the clubhouse before Beasley's (with Poole's a close second).

To go with my meal, I tried their American Trio cocktail, which was more of a sipping drink than a true beverage for brunch.  Still, it has great flavor and was perfect once the ice in the drink melted a bit... the orange peel and the three liquors (which escape me right now) were a great match and refreshing for the morning.

If I'm looking for good brunch in Raleigh and want the traditional southern style, I think I'll go with Beasley's rather than Poole's Diner.  While both are exceptionally good, the larger menu and slight smaller crowds (which will probably change with time unfortunately!) make Beasley's more convenient and appealing my various tastes for the day.  I already cannot wait to return when I'm back in North Carolina... this will certainly be one of my first stops!

Market

For our final dinner before I returned to Spain, Jessica and I went to Market Restaurant (http://www.eatatmarket.com/) on Blount Street.  I had been once before on a food tour and knew they specialized in fresh, local ingredients with selections for vegetarians and vegans.  The atmosphere is just as you'd like... very "indie" and somewhat casual with a small bar in the front and an open kitchen on the right allowing the diners to see the food being prepared.

Jessica and I took our seats at the bar (all of the tables were full on a Saturday night, so this was the quickest option and also allowed better view of the chef preparing the dishes) and started with their crack fries.  These fries are amazing; a huge pile is served sprinkled with cheese, green onions, and truffle oil.  They are the right amount of crispy without losing the potato taste and texture inside.  We (and by "we" I mostly mean "me") finished these fries with NO PROBLEM whatsoever, somewhat embarrassing as the couple next to us received theirs first and weren't even halfway done when I polished off our last one!

For dinner, Jessica had the grilled avocado salad (which she loved) and I tried one of their specials for the night, lamb tagine served with creamy grits.  The lamb was served tender, having been braised in a type of tomato sauce with onions.  The flavor was milder than a lamb chop, which I appreciated as sometimes the "lamb" flavor can come across a bit strong, and was complimented perfectly with the tomato flavors and the creamy grits (I didn't expect it, but I'd say these were some of the best-prepared grits I've ever had).  With each bite, I tried to get a little taste of everything because they were paired so well together.  I stopped JUST short of licking my bowl clean, but needless to say, the dish was excellent.  For dessert, we went next door to the local chocolate store and Jessica had a great peach push-up.

Market Restaurant is the perfect example of a local, no-frills restaurant serving great food in a great atmosphere (I've heard they're moving actually, which may help with space as it can be very crowded).  More than anywhere else in Raleigh, I'd say I look forward to returning to Market most to try something new for dinner, as well as getting more crack fries to start!  I really enjoyed watching the chefs work also, seeing the way they time the finish of dishes as well as the methods and organization they use in the kitchen to make sure everything is prepared properly and moved through the kitchen.

My time home in Raleigh was too short, but I enjoyed every minute with Jessica and Berkley, as well as my family and friends.  The food in North Carolina is SO different from that here in Spain, but both are amazing in their own ways.  I am fortunate enough to have the chance to taste amazing seafood and ham here in Barcelona, but cannot wait to return to Clayton for more of the southern dining I've grown to love.

Restaurant Reviews Are Coming

I have just returned to Spain this week so things are a bit hectic, but be on the lookout for my restaurant reviews this weekend from my trip back to North Carolina.  Jessica and I (along with my family) took full advantage of my time home to sample some new places as well as some old favorites!

Weekend Eating

For the first time, TWO separate people asked why I hadn't written a blog this week, so I figured I'd put one together.  I have to give the people (the two people) what they want!  The reason I was slacking, other than my assumption that interest was dying, is my imminent return to Clayton to see Jessica, Berkley, my family, and friends!  Still, over the past week I've had a few really nice dining experiences so I thought I could share...

Last Sunday, I ate at my favorite tapas bar in Barcelona (Cerveceria Catalana) after visiting the elBulli exhibit at Palau Robert.  The display was great; I was able to read the history of the famous restaurant as well as seeing (through video) the preparation of countless dishes.  While my lunch after wasn't to elBulli standards, it was still great as always.  I had the croquettes, salmon, and ham (all served on small pieces of bread) and left very satisfied.  Cerveceria Catalana is definitely my recommended tapas place for any visitors to Barcelona.

This weekend, I tried three new places.  My co-worker and I went to the first, and then we added a group of co-workers visiting from Clayton for the second and third restaurants.  I thought all were pretty good, with the first the least impressive (and "Spanish") of the group.

The first, Cinco Jotas, is a standard but good restaurant and I tried their shrimp "sampler"  It came with fried shrimp, shrimps fried after being wrapped in wontons, and then little shrimp dumpling "purses".  I suppose it's more my order that made this place seem un-Spanish, as they specialize in the highest grade "jamon" sold as well as a dish with potatoes, ham, and eggs.  My entree was pretty good but seemed Asian more than anything else.  Next time (if there is one, and I wouldn't be against returning), I'll go more traditional.

For dinner yesterday, a group of us tried Arenal, which is a nice beachside restaurant in Barceloneta.  Our table, while inside, was right at the window overlooking the beach and created a cool atmosphere for people watching.  It was the festival of Sant Joan last night, so during the meal we could hear firecrackers and see fireworks throughout.  For appetizer, the table split cod fritters, ham croquettes, and the standard bread with tomato.  All are now firmly in my rotation of first courses ordered, and I believe the visitors enjoyed as well.

For my entree, I split the rice in lobster broth with a co-worker.  One of my friends at work here told me this is a specialty of many beach restaurants, and I was happy to give it a try.  The serving for both me and my co-worker was HUGE... we each had half of a good-sized lobster and more rice than I could possibly eat.  The broth was flavorful and extremely rich, making the rice alone worthy of being a complete entree.  The lobster was great as well; it was tender (surprising as it sat in the hot rice) and packed with taste from the shell and broth.  The only downside was that I had gather the meat myself; I made an absolute mess of this and the tablecloth paid the price unfortunately!  I've now tried both shrimp and lobster broth rice dishes and I have to say that style is one of my favorites in Spain.  I would take either over a paella any day.

For my final culinary adventure, I had octopus with potatoes and paprika (pictured above) with two co-workers at a street-side restaurant on Passeig de Gracia.  The serving was quite large I thought, and the octopus cooked perfectly to be tender with the right amount of salt.  The paprika is somehow the PERFECT match for the octopus, as are the potatoes when everything gets mixed together.  The restaurant, called Divinus, was fairly basic and not too flashy, but all of our meals were quite good.  I've found that, with a somewhat discerning eye to help stay away from "tourist trap" establishments, you can find great food all up and down the main streets in the city.

I think for the last few days here (only three days of work and then I am heading back to Jessica!!!!!), I may try the Japanese restaurant, which serves amazing rice and noodle dishes in addition to excellent shrimp tempura, and the wood-fired pizza place.  Sure, I'm not going out with a Spanish bang, but part of the greatness in Spanish dining is the variety that exists all over the city!

Nearing the Halfway Point

I only have eleven more days (eight working days!) until I return to Clayton to Jessica and Berkley, marking the halfway point of my assignment.  While I'm getting more "comfortable" with the Spanish way of living, nothing can replace my family and home, so I cannot wait.  Each day seems longer than the one before as I get closer to seeing Jessica, but that hasn't been able to dampen our excitement!

This weekend, I went into Barcelona for some quick shopping and also to see the elBulli exhibit at Palau Robert.  The museum (which was free on Sunday) has a nice walk-through display showing the start, evolution, and pinnacle of elBulli, finishing with video of their last night of service.  For 45 minutes, I was fully captivated by the story, the pictures, and the whole concept of the restaurant and the way it transformed dining in the world.  For anyone in Barcelona, I'd strongly recommend you take the time and visit this exhibit; it's informative and entertaining without consuming so much of your day.

And now, with my first half of living in Spain just about done, here's a list of some surprises and differences that I find interesting living here:

- I think I've seen Pepsi here once.  Coke products are everywhere (including Coke Zero) and Fanta is far more popular than in the United States.  As most know, though, free refills are unheard of and it has been quite an adjustment for me.
- Credit card machines here a) don't allow for tips to be added (from what I can tell), b) seem to be from 1995 in their technology, and c) sometimes can charge in either dollars or euros, which seems simple but then makes me think ALL of them should have the option.
- With very limited exceptions for Real Madrid fans, no one here cares about any sports teams other than those of Barcelona (futbol and basketball).  Even the Spanish national team is not overly popular.
- Fashion in Spain is either 5 years ahead of America, 15 years behind, or both.
- The cuisine here has been as advertised, if not better.  I did not expect things like duck and tuna to be so common, but they are and they're always prepared extremely well.  While tapas is a relatively new addition to the Barcelona landscape, it is done quite well in a few places.
- Spanish (or maybe Catalan) custom is to have a bocadillo (similar to a torpedo or sub in America, with meat and tomato spread on the bread) around 10 AM each morning, bridging the gap between breakfast and dinner around 1:30 PM.  I wish this caught on EVERYWHERE... the sandwiches are fantastic and a welcome break during mid-morning.
- Food is served more natural, and less processed.  People here constantly joke that Americans only eat chicken tenders!
- The McDonalds here (which I've tried 3 or 4 times I think) is consistently better than in America.  The food is the same, and with both countries putting their best feet forward, I'd call it a draw, but overall, the Spanish version delivers the higher level of quality.
- The phrase "take a beer" instead of "have a beer" or "drink a beer" is my favorite saying I'll bring back to America.
- EVERYTHING (except for restaurants) is closed on Sunday. 
- Driving is stressful.  The roads and lanes are narrower, motor bikes dart and drive between cars frequently, and signage for directions isn't always the best.

I know that I'm missing many, but these are some off the top of my head.  Enjoy your week, and I will enjoy getting closer and closer to returning to Jessica and Berkley!